Slovenians in Italy
After spending much time in the footprint of Italy, I finally make my way into Italy by way of Austria. The last leg of my journey will be a simple drive through Italy, from Gorizia in the north to Napoli in the south.
My next interview is in Gorizia (Slovene: Gorica), one of the many Italianised cities that had once been majority slav. From the rise of fascism in 1922 to its fall in 1994, the Italian state forcibly assimilated and deported most non-Italians, and despite this, the language still holds on in certain parts of the region. On the Viale XX Settembre, my taxi pulls over in front of the Lojze Bratuž Cultural Centre. The white building still looks new, though it was built in 1998, and its windows are spotless. Great care has been put into keeping the place clean.
Entering into the lobby, I’m greeted by the director, 43 year-old Mateja Kovač. She’s accompanied by a few younger men and women, who all smile and shake my hand. After some brief introductions, I learn that these are university students volunteering at the centre. Mateja is the second director of the cultural centre since its opening, with its first director having just passed away two years ago.
Once the pleasantries are out of the way, we make our way to a small meeting room. “We can get settled in here, I’ll ask someone to bring us coffee soon,” she says. The room has no windows, but it has good soundproofing and a mix of modern and traditional landscape art on the walls. The table is a sturdy piece of finished wood, not cheap but also nothing exotic.
Q: Mrs. Kovač, I have to say the cultural centre is quite nice. Would you mind if I asked who funded its construction?
Mateja Kovač: It was a collaborative effort within the Slovene community. We also received a small grant from King Anton II of Slovenia.
Q: How are relations between the Slovene community here and the Kingdom of Slovenia?
MK: It depends. Relations between the community and Slovenia are quite strong, especially in recent years, but many are critical and question the monarchy’s role in crimes committed under fascism. Of course, those crimes were mainly perpetrated by the fascist government of Italy, and today we receive a lot of support from Slovenia.
Q: What is the current situation for the Slovenian community in Italy?
MK: It’s a mix of progress and ongoing challenges. Slovenian was recognised as a historical minority language in 1999, but we’re struggling against the inertia of fascist-era policies. Of course, now we can openly promote our language and culture. Slovenian language is taught in schools, but we don’t have adequate representation in the government or media.
Q: How does Slovene language education work in Italy?
MK: Well, here in Venezia Giulia, Slovene language is offered as an optional class in most schools. Parents can also choose to send their children to Slovene primary and secondary schools, but not everyone lives somewhere that has them.
Q: I noticed on my way here that there are bilingual signs in this neighbourhood. Are those everywhere in the region, or just a few places?
MK: Not everywhere, but usually anywhere with a significant Slovene community. Especially when you leave the city, it’s common to see towns and villages with bilingual signs.
Bilingual sign in Postregna, in Venezia Giulia
Q: How do people feel about their Slovene identity after the fall of fascism?
MK: Many, especially the older generations who experienced oppressive policies of the fascism, have a renewed sense of pride. Since fascism ended in Slovenia as well, it’s easier for them to feel a real connection to their heritage. Others, especially the younger generation, are only learning about these things now. They grew up in an italianised environment, and usually felt alienated from their communities. Many of them are shocked and angry about what happened, while others want to move on.
Q: You spoke about younger Slovenians feeling alienated, do you think the Italian government’s stance on reconciliation has helped alleviate it, or made it worse?
MK: It’s a contentious issue. Some people appreciate the policy reversals from the late 90s, especially the new language and cultural rights we received, but others feel it’s fallen short. The lack of a concrete apology or investigations into exact figures of deaths and deportations has led to many feeling angry.
Q: Do you think this is connected to the recent revival of extremist groups like TIGR?
TIGR (an acronym of Trst/Trieste, Istra/Istria, Gorica/Gorizia, Reka/Fiume), full name Revolutionary Organisation of the Julian March T.I.G.R. (Slovene: Revolucionarna organizacija Julijske krajine T.I.G.R.) was an anti-fascist insurgent organisation active between 1927 and 1941. A revival group was founded as a political party in 2007 to represent anti-fascist Slovenes in Italy, particularly in Venezia Giulia (Julian March).
TIGR rally in Basovizza, near Trieste
MK: Yes, but I think we should see it as a symptom of the problem rather than a solution.
Q: Do Slovenes see unification of Venezia Giulia with Slovenia as possible?
Mateja smiles, but shakes her head.
MK: The idea might be a symbolic goal, it’s highly unlikely. Both states are part of the EU, and any territorial changes would revive old issues like Kraljevica[1] and Zara[2].
[1] Kraljevica is Slovenia’s sea access corridor, which cut off Croatia from bordering Italy. Claimed by nationalist Croatians.
[2] Zara is Italy’s enclave in Dalmatia, surrounded by Croatia. Claimed by nationalist Croatians.
Q: Going back to language, do you think the Slovene language is recovering or continuing to decline?
MK: The language still faces pressure from Italian dominance, and the younger generation is often more limited in their proficiency due to social factors, but efforts to promote Slovene schools and programs are definitely working. I think improving community engagement and fostering a sense of connection will help maintain the growing number of Slovene speakers.
Q: How do the situations in Venezia Giulia and other Slovene areas of Italy compare?
MK: Venezia Giulia is a bit different, with a higher population and large urban centres like Trieste and Gorizia, but we share the same laws and cultural institutions. Having more people means we have a greater voice, and having people in the city means it’s easier to organise new initiatives or organise resources.
Q: Last question - would you ever consider moving to Slovenia?
MK: Personally, I feel connected to the Slovene community here. I’m committed to supporting it and keeping it alive, and I can’t imagine leaving it behind. Maybe living in Slovenia would have its appeal, but I believe my role here at the cultural centre is more important.
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note: it's not dead, I promise!!