Interview with Italian veteran in Somalia
Finishing my time in Eritrea, I cut across Harrar in the direction of Somalia. I will be taking a zig-zag route to the Ogaden region, then back into Harrar, and crossing back into Somalia. I’ll be avoiding Amara and Ethiopia due to the tenuous political situation in those countries, but I hope to visit sometime in the future.
My next interview is in Dagabur (Somali: Dhagaxbuur), one of the more interior cities of Somalia. Here, where Balbo’s Italy did its best to bring Italian industry to the fringes of the empire, there’s a sea of mass-produced concrete structures. Among the hundreds of tightly-packed concrete apartment complexes, I walk with my head back, looking in awe at the jarring skyline. Hearing a few giggles from locals, I bring my eyes back to the ground and soon enough find the home of my interviewee. Michele Amadori, a 47 year old Italian veteran, served alongside anti-guerilla forces deployed in Scio, the former Italian military district around Addis Ababa in Ethiopia.
He meets me in the sparse, tiled lobby and shakes my hand silently. “We’ll try the elevator, but I don’t know if they fixed it yet,” he says. Luckily, it has indeed been fixed, and we take it to his floor without issue. Our interview begins not in his apartment, but in the half-open hallway. From there, we look out at a view of the city – a premium 9th floor view.
Q: It’s quite a view.
Michele nods, looking far into the distance.
MA: It gives you a different perspective on things.
Q: When did you move here?
MA: About a decade ago. I moved a lot and didn’t know where to go. I had never been to Dagabur before and thought it would be a fresh start.
Q: When did you leave the army?
MA: I left in 1983. It was just after we pulled out of Scio, and things were changing in Harrar, so I could either join the new Somali army or quit. Italy didn’t need soldiers in Africa anymore.
Q: And how have you adjusted?
MA: Honestly? It was tough. I had to find my own way, struggle by myself… but I got used to it. I found work, made a living.
Q: You didn’t get a pension?
MA: [scoffs] From who? The government in Rome – they don’t want to talk about the war. The fighting is over, and they want to move on.
Michele is referring to the widespread disownment of Italian soldiers following the East African War. Italy hired its African soldiers indirectly – the new dominion status of Eritrea and Somalia was used to hire both European Italians and colonial citizens into the army, but with the added benefit of plausible deniability. Any war crimes could be buried under colonial bureaucracy or a lack of paperwork.
And while some in Italy continue to lobby for the rights of veterans, most who fought in the East African War were given grants to settle in Eritrea and Somalia. Those grants, financed by the Italian government, also allowed the two dominions to boost their Italian population by just a little bit more. Every effort was made to turn away international pressure.
Q: Dagabur is mostly Somali – do you ever feel resentment from locals?
MA: Some people here don’t like Italians in general, but it’s complicated. There were a lot of Somalis who fought alongside Italy, like the Ascaris. These days, people avoid the past and just try to judge based on life today, especially since a lot of them have family who fought back then. You treat me nice, I’ll treat you nice.
Q: What’s the language situation like in Dagabur? Italian is an official language, but can you get by with it here in the west?
MA: It’s not very common. I picked up Somali when I served in Harrar, so I was lucky. You can use Italian when you’re back in the Triangle, or if you’re in a big company, but on the streets it’s all Somali.
Q: What do you think about the transition?
MA: Democracy… [he takes a puff of a cigarette I hadn’t noticed before] it’s a change, that’s for sure. I don’t know anything about it, I never saw an election when I was younger. It’s progress, I guess, because now the Somalis are running things. It’s not my country, so I don’t feel it’s my place to say.
Q: What about fascism? Were you okay with the old system?
MA: It had good and bad points. There wasn’t any crime in Italy, but it came at a cost. If you had a drink and said the wrong thing, you were in trouble… unless you knew someone. That happened a lot back then, especially in the army.
Q: Nepotism?
MA: Yes, but we always said “connections” – you had to know someone or have family somewhere. Promotions, opportunities, posts, and so on. Nobody wanted to come down here though, to Africa, so it wasn’t as bad here.
Q: A lot of people bring up the issue of war crimes – did you see anything like that during your time in Scio?
MA: [pauses for a moment, his gaze distant] I saw a lot of things during my service. It was a dark time, and innocent people died. It stays with me, you know?
Q: Do you think Italy did the right thing, pulling out?
MA: I’m a soldier. I followed orders and carried out my duties. Whether it was the right choice or not… it’s not for me to say.
Q: Will you ever move back to Italy?
MA: It’s something I’ve thought about. I feel connected to Italy, and there are things I miss that you can’t find here. But… life here is different. I said earlier that you need connections in Italy, but here it’s not necessary. Maybe I’m stuck in the past, maybe it’s different now, I don’t know.