Lt. Col. John Alexander, Twenty Years in Africa: A Political Officer’s Travels in the Darkest Continent (London: Collins, 1867)
Chapter Twelve: Sokoto Yet Again and Timbuktu, 1847-48
… My fourth return to Sokoto was a study in what had changed and, at the same time, what had not. The road north from Lagos – a British port now, with a naval station and a resident in charge – was well traveled, and in the territories with more enterprising rulers, it had been improved. At the border near Ilorin were several travellers’ hostels, and in the city itself were a growing number of weaving-mills, not what there would be in Yorkshire but still appearing strangely out of place in the setting. From there onward, I traveled on military roads which seemed to be used by many more travellers and merchants than soldiers, past the beginnings of navigation canals.
The dress of the people had not changed, but the way that I looked at it had. The Abacar affair two years back had made Africa all the rage at home, as Egypt had been when I was a child and India would be a few years later, and on my last visit, our own dear ladies had affected headdresses identical to what the women of Sokoto wore. The ladies of Britain, of course, had their turbans made of silk, but their colors and patterns might as well have been Fula, and whenever I spied a well-formed woman, I couldn’t help wondering how her turban might be judged in Hyde Park or Lord’s. Fortunately, fashions hadn’t travelled the other way, and the ladies of Sokoto proved too sensible to wear corsets or dozens of petticoats – an affectation that, in the event, would doubtless have caused them to melt in the heat of the day.
Throughout my progress through the Republic, I had been hearing much intelligence in the travellers’ hostels regarding other kingdoms. One name that was spoken in almost every conversation was that of El Hadj Umar Tall, a king of the Tukulor – a far-western Fula tribe which lived by its farms rather than its herds – who had united several of the nations on the upper Niger. He was married to a granddaughter of the old Sultan of Sokoto and accounted Abacar both a personal and a religious enemy, deeming him a usurper of the sultanate and a heretic in his theology. For all that, he opposed the slave trade as Abacar did and suppressed that traffic within his domains, even quoting Abacar’s teachings on that if on no other matter.
I had made up my mind to travel up the Niger and see what I could learn of this man, and when I told Abacar of this design, he asked me to carry a message. This I could not refuse, so I found a place in a caravan northwestward.
From Sokoto to Timbuktu is some six hundred miles, much of it passable only by land. To the north, the climate becomes steadily drier and the land turns to scrub and then to desert; above Ansongo, where the river becomes navigable again, there are places where the dunes extend all the way to the water’s edge. Here the lands around the Niger are much like Egypt and the Nile; lush with life where the annual floods renew the soil, still as death in the interior.
Throughout the journey, I was able to get by with the Fulfulde I had learned during my visits to Sokoto; although the dialects were different, the rulers of many cities and nations were still Fulani. I was struck by the degree to which a mixture of Fulfulde and gutter Portuguese, adopted by the Malê merchants, had become a traders’ tongue and
lingua franca through the region.
I came at last to Timbuktu, which is a city of mud and a city of mosques. Everything here is built of mud, some in bricks and some not, bleached and dried by the remorseless sun. The mosques too are constructed of mud – pyramids, domes, castles and ziggurats of mud, with bundles of palm projecting at intervals for support and decoration.
The population of the city is largely a mix of Moors and Negroes, although there are also many Tuareg nomads. Here the turbans of the Sokoto women were exchanged for veils, except among the Tuaregs, where the women were bare-faced and it was the men who were veiled. The Tuareg men always carry swords, which they hone to razor keenness, and have curious dances…
… I had thought to travel on up the Niger to Umar Tall’s seat in Dinguiraye, but on my first night in Timbuktu, I was fortunate to learn that he was present in the city. He had lately persuaded the rulers of the city to league with him against the noxious ideas (for so he accounted them) coming from Sokoto, and had traveled here to seal the pact. The kingdoms of the Bambara, who were pagan, lay between these lands and the other portions of Umar Tall’s kingdom, but he had forced them to give passage to his troops and give up raiding for slaves.
[1]
The ruler himself – with whom I was able to secure an audience on my fourth day in Timbuktu – was a religious teacher and scholar much as Abacar was, and as the sheik Usman dan Fodio had been. He was younger than Abacar (although still of a considerable age) and taller; his form was tall and gaunt where Abacar’s was stocky and powerful. But I felt the same commanding presence from him that I had in the company of the other man.
He seemed not at all affected by the fact that a white man had come to see him, treating me like any other emissary and asking me to state my business.
“I will hear no messages from Abacar,” he replied when I had done this. “He is an apostate and a heretic, a worshiper of false French doctrine, and with him there will be no peace. Is that what he wants?”
“No, not that,” I said. “He knows that you will not treat with him. His message is that you have done well to suppress the slave trade but that you have not yet freed the slaves within your own domain, and he begs you to do so, and to honor them with freedom as God requires.”
Umar Tall gave me no answer, then or during the other audiences I had with him. But a year later, I learned that he had in fact decreed the abolition of slavery…
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[1] At this time in OTL, Umar Tall was just beginning his jihad – his first conquests, of the Malinké occurred in 1848. In the ATL, he has been impelled to quicker action by the appearance of Abacarist theology, which he regards as heretical. Also, in contrast to OTL where his first step was to conquer and Islamize the surrounding non-Muslim ethnic groups, his chief aim in the ATL is to unite the western Muslim nations in opposition to Malê radicalism. Thus, instead of invading Masina in 1862 and being stopped at Timbuktu the following year, he has won these kingdoms to his side through diplomacy and persuasion, and has used a combination of these means and military force to unite the Muslim kingdoms of the upper Niger. Other local jihadists, such as Maba Diakhou Bâ, will be his vassals in the ATL, at least for a while, rather than acting independently.
At the time of then-Major Alexander’s visit, Tall’s empire consists of Futa Toro, Futa Jallon and parts of Rip on one side, and Masina on the other – still several hundred miles from Sokoto, but in a position to interdict traffic up the Niger. The two wings are separated by the non-Muslim Bambara kingdoms, but Tall has bullied these states into granting autonomy to their Muslim communities and giving free passage to his troops. His empire is actually larger than OTL, but looser (because much of it joined him voluntarily and hasn’t been forced to give up its autonomy) and more inherently unstable (both for that reason and because its two wings are separated by the Bamana). Tall will soon attempt to change both these factors.
And he did preach against the slave trade in OTL, although it wasn't a focus of his jihad; in the ATL, with the unspoken (and unacknowledged, at least by him) influence of the Malê, it will be more of one.