Nietzsche
Banned
How do you fix a fire problem? With MORE FIRE of course! The enemy will never see it coming! Now let's move on to my second plan, namely, replacing our sidearms with the Type 14 Nambu...It's possible.
Alterntive History Armoured Fighting Vehicles
- Thread starter Claymore
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Maybe they're hoping to blow out the fire with explosives like they do when an oil well is burning? And the Type 14 Nambu man, that's just cruel.
AH AFV Model Building Tutorial
At the start of every project there is an initial idea. Sometimes this idea is a formed concept from someone’s AH TL, sometimes it’s a vague idea that needs development and form and sometimes it is no more than a gut feeling of what might look cool. But this is where any project starts and it is actually the single most important step in the process of building an AH AFV.
This tutorial will, I hope, detail what I believe to be the process of getting from that initial idea to a solid 3D representation with the minimum of fuss, frustration, foul language and/or blood being spilt.
I will use two models of PzKpfw IV variants to illustrate the techniques used.
Step 1: Planning.
As with most projects in life it is essential to have a plan or aim. As an infantryman, I was taught that the first tenet of military action is selection and maintenance of the aim – and so it is here. A plan will keep you on the straight and narrow, will keep your model in balance and will prevent you sliding into the realms of fantasy. Your plan needs to take into account the period you are building in, the weapons available, the other designs of the time, national design characteristics, the laws of physics and a believable rationale for the existence of the end product all mixed in with and a good helping of the rule of cool! It is always a good idea at this early stage to draw a sketch of how you see the end product looking. As with most good designs, if it looks good then it likely is. Make sure that all the subcomponents of your sketch are in scale with each other as this will save disappointment later on. Even once you have your plan and drawing, never forget that 2D is not 3D – what looks OK on a 2D drawing may translate in to a very complex shape in 3D. This is usually OK for cast armour but not at all for welded plate.
In my case, because I am a Scotsman and therefore, by national characteristic, tight with money, I also consider if the proposed project can be built from my reserve of old models or whether I need to buy from new. Sadly, cost is a consideration in itself that may place limitations on what you can and can’t achieve.
But as the Chinese philosopher Laozi said, “A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step” and so it is with kit bashing. Make a start and take it little by little…
At the start of every project there is an initial idea. Sometimes this idea is a formed concept from someone’s AH TL, sometimes it’s a vague idea that needs development and form and sometimes it is no more than a gut feeling of what might look cool. But this is where any project starts and it is actually the single most important step in the process of building an AH AFV.
This tutorial will, I hope, detail what I believe to be the process of getting from that initial idea to a solid 3D representation with the minimum of fuss, frustration, foul language and/or blood being spilt.
I will use two models of PzKpfw IV variants to illustrate the techniques used.
Step 1: Planning.
As with most projects in life it is essential to have a plan or aim. As an infantryman, I was taught that the first tenet of military action is selection and maintenance of the aim – and so it is here. A plan will keep you on the straight and narrow, will keep your model in balance and will prevent you sliding into the realms of fantasy. Your plan needs to take into account the period you are building in, the weapons available, the other designs of the time, national design characteristics, the laws of physics and a believable rationale for the existence of the end product all mixed in with and a good helping of the rule of cool! It is always a good idea at this early stage to draw a sketch of how you see the end product looking. As with most good designs, if it looks good then it likely is. Make sure that all the subcomponents of your sketch are in scale with each other as this will save disappointment later on. Even once you have your plan and drawing, never forget that 2D is not 3D – what looks OK on a 2D drawing may translate in to a very complex shape in 3D. This is usually OK for cast armour but not at all for welded plate.
In my case, because I am a Scotsman and therefore, by national characteristic, tight with money, I also consider if the proposed project can be built from my reserve of old models or whether I need to buy from new. Sadly, cost is a consideration in itself that may place limitations on what you can and can’t achieve.
But as the Chinese philosopher Laozi said, “A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step” and so it is with kit bashing. Make a start and take it little by little…
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AH AFV Model Building Tutorial
Step 2: Preparation.
With you plan firmly in mind, you should have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done to your base model and therefore what needs to be cut, discarded, swapped over and alike. Make sure that you have all the necessary bits to do the major reconstruction and a supply of plastic card of various thicknesses and filler to make good the inevitable gaps, gouges and scratches. I use MMD Green Putty as filler. It is fast drying, easy to sand and takes paint well. Be careful, however, and use it in small quantities as it contains a solvent that will dissolve your model if used to excess! As for the plastic card, a general rule is look at the thickness of the piece you are replacing and use that thickness of card. However, the thicker the card the more difficult it is to cut and work with and, conversely, the thinner it is the easier it is to shape but the less structural integrity it has.
Step 3: Dressing Down.
Some makes of kit lend themselves to kit bashing more than others. Tamiya is a sound and sturdy favourite that can take a lot of punishment whereas Italeri is relatively thin and brittle and consequently, has to be treated with due care and respect. Having said that, do not be afraid to get stuck in. All kit bashing has to go through the phase of looking a lot worse before it gets better. I generally strip off as much of the detailed bits as I can and set them aside. This allows easier access for structural changes whilst preserving useful detailing for later on. Depending on the project, this step may see your original model almost totally deconstructed. A good sharp modelling knife, a razor saw, some micro files and good ol’ sandpaper are essential.
Step 2: Preparation.
With you plan firmly in mind, you should have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done to your base model and therefore what needs to be cut, discarded, swapped over and alike. Make sure that you have all the necessary bits to do the major reconstruction and a supply of plastic card of various thicknesses and filler to make good the inevitable gaps, gouges and scratches. I use MMD Green Putty as filler. It is fast drying, easy to sand and takes paint well. Be careful, however, and use it in small quantities as it contains a solvent that will dissolve your model if used to excess! As for the plastic card, a general rule is look at the thickness of the piece you are replacing and use that thickness of card. However, the thicker the card the more difficult it is to cut and work with and, conversely, the thinner it is the easier it is to shape but the less structural integrity it has.
Step 3: Dressing Down.
Some makes of kit lend themselves to kit bashing more than others. Tamiya is a sound and sturdy favourite that can take a lot of punishment whereas Italeri is relatively thin and brittle and consequently, has to be treated with due care and respect. Having said that, do not be afraid to get stuck in. All kit bashing has to go through the phase of looking a lot worse before it gets better. I generally strip off as much of the detailed bits as I can and set them aside. This allows easier access for structural changes whilst preserving useful detailing for later on. Depending on the project, this step may see your original model almost totally deconstructed. A good sharp modelling knife, a razor saw, some micro files and good ol’ sandpaper are essential.
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AH AFV Model Building Tutorial
Step 4: …and Now for Something Completely Different.
As you gaze upon the rubble of what was once a half decent model, it is all too easy to lose faith and/or confidence and bin the whole thing. Don’t. Have a long look at your plan and see the end product in your mind’s eye in all its glory. This is where the real fun begins. Start swapping bits around, stick bits on and fabricate new bits from plastic card or whatever else works. Don’t do too much at once and if necessary make paper or card templates first. Give the glue time to dry for that all important structural integrity. Don’t worry too much about perfect fits or joints – they can always be filled and sanded down later – but do try and keep things that need to be square, square. A fair bit of inspiration is needed at this stage as no plan survives first contact with the enemy – the enemy in this case being reality and the laws of physics! Stick with it. If MacGyver can make a flame thrower from two sticks and a can of squirty cream you can certainly glue some plastic together. Remember, not to go overboard; in most cases less is more. No AFV is perfect so do not try and add everything. Super detailing kits in etched brass are available for most models but these tend to be very expensive, difficult to work with and very time consuming – not a great fan! When it looks right, stop!
Step 4: …and Now for Something Completely Different.
As you gaze upon the rubble of what was once a half decent model, it is all too easy to lose faith and/or confidence and bin the whole thing. Don’t. Have a long look at your plan and see the end product in your mind’s eye in all its glory. This is where the real fun begins. Start swapping bits around, stick bits on and fabricate new bits from plastic card or whatever else works. Don’t do too much at once and if necessary make paper or card templates first. Give the glue time to dry for that all important structural integrity. Don’t worry too much about perfect fits or joints – they can always be filled and sanded down later – but do try and keep things that need to be square, square. A fair bit of inspiration is needed at this stage as no plan survives first contact with the enemy – the enemy in this case being reality and the laws of physics! Stick with it. If MacGyver can make a flame thrower from two sticks and a can of squirty cream you can certainly glue some plastic together. Remember, not to go overboard; in most cases less is more. No AFV is perfect so do not try and add everything. Super detailing kits in etched brass are available for most models but these tend to be very expensive, difficult to work with and very time consuming – not a great fan! When it looks right, stop!
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AH AFV Model Building Tutorial
Step 5: Painting.
There are many different ways to paint your model and none are unique to kit-bashing. My preferred method is to spray the model in a dark undercoat (I use Tamiya Matt Black spray TS-6). This serves two purposes: firstly, it covers up all the mix of parts and pulls everything together as a complete model for the first time; and secondly, it serves as pre-shading.
Having selected the camo/paint job you desire, spray on the base colour with a 50-50 mix of paint and thinner allowing some of that black undercoat to show through – particularly in the natural shaded areas. This will add depth to the finished product. I usually add a couple of dark washes at this time to give that grubby used look so reminiscent of real AFVs. Well thinned black or dark grey is good and liberal use of the wife’s hair drier helps speed the drying process!
I then spray the areas that will receive decals with varnish (Humbrol Satin 135). This gives a good surface for the decal to sit on. Once thoroughly dry, I then spray the entire model in another coat of varnish but this time Humbrol Matt 49. This seals in the decals, covers up the satin varnish and provides a protective coat over your model. Take care to spray the matt varnish in a warm, dry and well ventilated environment. If too damp the varnish has a nasty habit of separating and leaving a white residue over your paint job. If this does happen don’t turn into the Hulk and start smashing things up, just spray on some more varnish but make sure there is no moisture in the air – the garage in winter is not a good place!
Another wash to blend in the decals a bit and then I finish off with some dusted on soft pastels – black, light grey, yellow ocre and burnt sienna are good. Black for soot, burnt sienna for rust and a mix of all 4 for track detail.
Pour yourself a glass of whatever is your pleasure, sit back and congratulate yourself on a job well done!
Step 5: Painting.
There are many different ways to paint your model and none are unique to kit-bashing. My preferred method is to spray the model in a dark undercoat (I use Tamiya Matt Black spray TS-6). This serves two purposes: firstly, it covers up all the mix of parts and pulls everything together as a complete model for the first time; and secondly, it serves as pre-shading.
Having selected the camo/paint job you desire, spray on the base colour with a 50-50 mix of paint and thinner allowing some of that black undercoat to show through – particularly in the natural shaded areas. This will add depth to the finished product. I usually add a couple of dark washes at this time to give that grubby used look so reminiscent of real AFVs. Well thinned black or dark grey is good and liberal use of the wife’s hair drier helps speed the drying process!
I then spray the areas that will receive decals with varnish (Humbrol Satin 135). This gives a good surface for the decal to sit on. Once thoroughly dry, I then spray the entire model in another coat of varnish but this time Humbrol Matt 49. This seals in the decals, covers up the satin varnish and provides a protective coat over your model. Take care to spray the matt varnish in a warm, dry and well ventilated environment. If too damp the varnish has a nasty habit of separating and leaving a white residue over your paint job. If this does happen don’t turn into the Hulk and start smashing things up, just spray on some more varnish but make sure there is no moisture in the air – the garage in winter is not a good place!
Another wash to blend in the decals a bit and then I finish off with some dusted on soft pastels – black, light grey, yellow ocre and burnt sienna are good. Black for soot, burnt sienna for rust and a mix of all 4 for track detail.
Pour yourself a glass of whatever is your pleasure, sit back and congratulate yourself on a job well done!
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I realize, you could do a whole tutorial just on painting The Beast.
Don't. I still have flash backs about that!
Cool tutorial Claymore. I'll be using it as a guide and reference in the future, especially when things go wrong and am filled with rage to go Hulk! I also agree of your assessment of Tamiya and Italeri but the worst manufacturer in my opinion is Testers their kits always seem to have bad warping. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks, I hope you find it useful. Trial and error though is always good too. Best thing however, is to keep things realistic and work out whether what you are attempting could actually have worked. That way, when it is finished it should have that feel of authenticity.
I've never come across Testers before... sounds as though it's just as well.
It is, it is. Did you ever build any of the old Monogram Armour kits in 1/32 scale? They were pretty good. Pity they don't make em anymore.I've never come across Testers before... sounds as though it's just as well.
A long time ago... AFV Club models are on a par with Tamiya for solid construction and usually come with a bucket load of spare parts.
The biggest problem however, is that new kits are just so unbelievably expensive. Especially some of the smaller AFVs. For what they are, it is just a complete rip off! Just looked up AFV Club models and yeah their not cheap, no wonder you rebuild your old kits.A long time ago... AFV Club models are on a par with Tamiya for solid construction and usually come with a bucket load of spare parts.
My but you have been busy!! Outstanding work and so many variations - how very German! I was just thinking that you had decided to go back to a front differential E-50 when I realised there was more (much more) on the post - well almost an entire page actually!
Thank you for sharing.
Outstanding work and so many variations - how very German! I was just thinking that you had decided to go back to a front differential E-50 when I realised there was more (much more) on the post - well almost an entire page actually!
Thank you for sharing.
The funny thing is, I'm Chinese. I merely enjoy the unique insanity and (lack of) thought processes that went into German AFVs. The Americans and Russians were so...rational in their design choices and needed to be counter balanced by bold, visionary moves (from schizophrenic design engineers).
The frame just lent itself so well to designing variants in any case.
Thank you for your praise.
Spoiler: The AFV in the tutorial is French. You may now panic.
155mm is not that big a diameter for a rocket (a little over 6") and so a pod of 8 - 2 x 4 is not that wide. I therefore think you could comfortably sit 2 pods side by side for a total of 16 rounds. The sketch is based on a rocket of 2m length but this could be altered as required. The 8-round pods sit on a cradle which elevates by hydraulic ram around a pivot at the rear. The whole thing traverses on a turntable mounted into the turret ring. Nothing too complicated but does it need to be?
Nietzsche
Banned
...
Jesus christ. I respected your work, as the lovely meld of art and science it is, but I never knew you put that much thought and love into it. I mean, it's obvious you enjoy it. But that's some dedication, man. I actually feel bad for all my requests. Christ, I don't think I could rid myself of this strange shame-feeling unless I paid you because that is just awe-inspiring and humbling on a level I didn't think possible.
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