Alternate Cooking
Pre-1650:
Eating healthy has always
been important to people, although ideas of what is healthy have often
changed. To avoid using practices such as bloodletting, doctors carefully
monitored their usually wealthy patients’ daily habits. Most important
among these was what they ate and drank.
If doctors advised, chefs
followed. Most head chefs, or majordomos, were expected to have at
least the rudimentary knowledge about what was considered healthy.
Because of that, doctors, physicians, and their patrons, shared a common
opinion on what was a healthy diet.
Two things contributed
to the idea of a healthy diet. First was the assumption that cooking
was the central process of life. Seeds were cooked into plants, plants
were cooked to produce raw foodstuffs, humans would cook the raw foodstuffs
into edible meals and the internal heat of the body cooked the food into
blood.
The second assumption
can be traced back to the Greeks, and to the man that most heavily influenced
the ideas of the Middle Ages, Aristotle. His elements—air, water,
fire and earth—corresponded to the four fluids, or humors, that circulated
in the body: blood (air), phlegm (water), yellow bile (fire) and black
bile (earth). Ideally, the human body was slightly warm and slightly
moist, with variation depending on age, sex, and geography location.
All foods were given
a rating of their properties, dry or wet, hot or cold, from one to three.
Pepper was hot and dry in the third degree, while vinegar was cold and
wet in the second degree. The way a food was cooked was to add on
the needed warmth and moistness. That is why root vegetables, dry
and cold, were to be stewed, and onions had to be fried.
A meal that was close
to perfect in the 16th century might be a blancmange, which is a thick
puree of rice and chicken moistened with milk from ground almonds with
sugar sprinkled on top. The entire meal was made up of ingredients
that were warm and moist. A suckling pig, also moist, might also
be served with a cameline sauce of cool, moist vinegar with warm raisins
and hot, dry spices.
On top of this meal,
there would of course be wine. Health experts of the day viewed wine
as having great medial properties. But, red wine tends to be cold
and dry, so it was often served warm with added sugar and spices, creating
a drink called hypocras. Armed with this knowledge, the 16th century
majordomo was prepared to not only make people’s stomachs happy, but keep
them in good health too.
Post-1650:
Northern Europe experienced
a change of views in the middle of the 17th century about health and cooking.
Physicians who gained ideas from Paracelsus, a doctor from Germany in the
1520s, believed that the idea of cooking being central to the life cycle
and the four Aristotelian elements were wrong, and had to be revised.
And so the modern diet of the northern Europeans was born.
It was the technology
of distillation that seems to have contributed to this change. Chemists
in the late Middle Ages began to experiment with heating a variety of natural
substances, many of them edible. They noticed that the original material
separated into three parts: a volatile fluid, an oily substance, and a
solid residue.
This gave the chemists
the idea that there were three, not four, elements. Mercury (not
the chemical of the same name) was the fluid, sulfur (not the chemical)
was the oily substance, and salt (not the common table salt) was the residue.
In this new theory, salt gave the taste, mercury gave the smell, and sulfur
not only brought sweetness, it bound the other two together.
Not only were the four
Aristotelian elements replaced, fermentation became the central process
of life. Seeds fermented in the soil to grow into plants. Foodstuffs
from plants were fermented into wine, beer, bread and other foods.
Inside the stomach, gastric juices acted on foods to turn them into a white,
milky fluid, which then mixed with alkaline bile. This mixture fermented
into the body fluids needed to survive.
Cooks responded the only
way they could, they changed dishes. For the first time, oysters,
anchovies, green vegetables, mushrooms, and fruits were eaten because they
fermented so readily. As fresh vegetables began to become common,
the science of horticulture rose in popularity. Before, the melon
was too cold and moist to be consumed. Now, it was a popular and
tasty dish.
But with this came a
price. To make sauces in this new diet, cooks used ingredients rich
in oil, such as butter or lard. They were combined with items high
in salt, such as flour and table salt, and items high in mercury, such
as vinegar and wine. The first recipe for roux, a combination of
fat and flour, with wine or stock to moisten, appeared in 1651. Although
fresh fruit and vegetables helped, today the diet of lard and other fatty
foods are the reason of high obesity in nations that were settled by Northern
Europeans.
The hot and spicy hypocras
gave way to cool wines. Sparkling mineral waters became very popular
as spas opened across Europe. Sparkling champagne was first produced
late in the 17th century. Sugar was no longer used in the entire
meal, and instead was given a special dish, dessert, which was prepared
in a separate kitchen. Land animals, especially beef, became the
base of stock, bouillon, or jellies.
What If:
In our own history Paracelsus
was adopted only in northern Europe. English, German and French speaking
countries in Europe, the U. S., Canada and Australia are the followers
of this diet. The Islamic and Spanish worlds remained isolated from
this new dietary theory. It is not that hard to imagine Paracelsus
remaining a minor doctor in Germany, with his ideas never being accepted.
Northern Europe keeps its dietary theory centered on cooking and the four
elements.
What then?
Effects:
It is impossible to imagine
all the changes that could result from northern Europe having a different
diet. A man, who in our history died from a heart attack, might live
on to father another son. This son may go on to marry the woman that
in our history gave birth to the lineage that resulted in Winston Churchill.
This can get out of control.
However, changes to the
diet in 1650, or in this case no change, could have other dietary changes
down the road. For example, the change in 1650 to eating fresh fruits
and vegetables is what has allowed the modern vegetation movement to happen.
Imagine a world in which fresh fruits and vegetables are considered to
be lowly, like eating raw fish. How serious would a person suggesting
eating only these items be taken?
Of course, you would
have dietary cults just like today. Just like there are people who
won’t eat carbohydrates today, you will have people that only eat vegetables
and fruits. But, while the vegetarians have influenced some of mainstream
ideas on cooking, it is doubtful that they would be able to in this alternate
world. Health might worse off because of this.
This world won’t, however,
have a large use of fat and other oils in cooking. Throwing fat back
on anything will not become common. Frying, which dries out something,
will not be common except for items like onions. Southern American
cooking would be split. The upper classes, the plantation owners
and their equals in modern society, will eat what the common northern European
cuisine would have.
Lower classes will, as
often true in a society, be better off. Melons, and other fresh fruits
and vegetables will be the only things available for the slaves and poor
whites. In fact, because eating things fresh takes less preparation
time, it’s plausible to see the lower southern classes develop ideas of
fresh salads and other vegetarian ideas. So perhaps I was wrong in
saying there would be no vegetarians.
In the Northern states
of America, the food will be less influenced by the Northern Europeans,
and instead show influences from the three major ethnic groups that immigrated
to America. Irish, Italian and German. In this world, the Italians
have not changed at all, and will still bring their olives and tomatoes.
German food would be the same as that in the upper Southern classes, the
alternate northern European culinary tastes.
It is interesting, to
look at the Irish. In our history, the potato was looked down on,
and still would be in this alternate history. The Irish would still
have some influences from the alternate northern European foods.
Frying onions was a common thing to do, and instead of boiling the potatoes
you might see fried potatoes being a common sign of Irish cuisine.
In Closing:
In this short essay,
I have focused mostly on the changes to American cuisine. This might
be because I am an America, but I have other reasons. Changes to
the northern European cuisine would keep it the same as I described earlier.
However, what the upper class looks down on is usually what the lower class
eats. That would change the diet of the African-Americans and the
Irish, two key groups in American history. It is therefore interesting
to imagine what would a dinner table in this Alternate World look like.
Enjoy!
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