Monday 8th June 2015
Bristol Temple Meads is a very busy station in the mornings, the county formerly known as Avon was one of the second wave of Passenger Transport Executives started in the 1980's along with Cleveland, Southampton/Portsmouth, Lothian and Medway. Different PTE's have had different priorities, but Bristol along with West Yorkshire has spent significantly on Rail and Temple Meads is the centre of it all. As such, it sees 9 million passengers a year, with over a million and a half changing there. Commuter trains flood out to Bath Midland Bridge, on the Avonmouth Outer Loop, the Henbury Loop, to Weston, to Thornbury, to Portishead and in a joint venture with Network Wales to Cardiff Central. Add to this the service to Salisbury down the Wessex Mainline, the trains on the Cross Country route and the Inter City service to London Paddington and you'll see why every one of the 15 platforms is busy.
Of course, there have been a lot of complaints about overcrowding even the purpose built class 157 Super Runners, which are supplemented by some of the original bus seated class 140 Joggers and there is talk of trying to get some 4 coach units for the busiest lines. However, with ongoing talk of electrifying the Great Western mainline beyond Didcot, the PTE has put that idea on hold and as such overcrowding continues. Whilst Avon has now gone, abolished by the Fowler government, the PTE remains and extracts some mirth with its red, blue and white livery and brand name of CUBAMetro.
However, I'm not here to take a trip to Pilning or Mangotsfield, but to get a Cross-Country down to Exeter St Davids. I've partlcularly picked the service I'm getting to get one of the increasingly rare loco-hauled trains rather then the class 155/156 units. The Peaks stopped working this line back in the late 1980's, leaving them to the tender mercies of the ubiquitous class 47 and a variable number of mark 2 coaches. Today, it's a 47 with 6 coaches one of which is a mini-buffet, although it can be up to 10 on a summer Saturday.
They refer to the old LSWR lines west of Exeter as the Withered Arm, but in reality as we head south, it's the ex-GWR lines that have had a lot of the cuts, I settle myself in the mini-buffet coach, where at least I can have some proper tea and toast rather than the instant tea from a trolley. There are only four stops on our trip, which is common for the loco-hauled services, the units stop at a couple more places.
We are checked for signals at Yatton, which used to be a junction station for two lines, both of which had just been shut before the 1964 election. The Clevedon line is long gone, a frequent shuttle bus has replaced it for many years and the alignment has been built on. The Cheddar Valley is mothballed and has been so for a number of years, it briefly had a service during the fuel crisis, but it never attracted the numbers despite the size of Wells. Of course, the lack of railway for Wells from any direction has probably been a key reason why it has become a safe seat for the Liberals.
After passing through the abandoned station of Worle, which has been the subject of some discussion about reopening, we see the Weston-super-Mare branch leave to the West, formerly a loop, the southern section has long been mothballed since Weston was reduced to local station service from Bristol. Our first call is at Bridgwater and then quickly after that at Taunton.
Taunton, is a mere shadow of its former self, it used to have nine platforms, now it has four, the majority of London pass straight through on the line in the centre. The east bay is used for the infrequent Yeovil Town service and the 2 hourly Westbury local service, neither make many stops en route, typical of the tertiary routes that survived. The west bay, however, is separated by a fence because this is the territory of the West Somerset Railway. There is no train in either bay.
The West Somerset is a rather usual thing. It is a combination of a preserved railway, the rather odd "community railway" idea of Fowler and still sees occasional BR service. It operates two trains a day using a class 119 DMU with another two "schools" services during term time. The rest of the time it operates a preserved steam service along a section of the line and on summer Saturdays only there are two BR through trains running non-stop from Taunton to Minehead.
From Taunton, it is non-stop to Exeter, the three open stations on the line are either called at by the slower units or by the truncated Exe Valley service. We start the climb up to Wellington, through, the tunnel and down the bank towards Exeter, passing through the remains of Tiverton Junction which had a very controversial closure in 1993. It is supposed to be demolished and replaced by some passing loops.
We growl our way into Exeter St David's about on time, where I have an extended period to wait before proceeding along the Withered Arm, whilst I could head off to Okehampton in about 30 minutes, I don't fancy hanging around that town for two hours, what I do is head off into Exeter for a decent lunch. Having taken a early lunch, I make my way back to Exeter St Davids and have a look around. Exeter St David's is the busiest station in Devon, narrowly beating Plymouth, although Exeter Central is still the termination point for a lot of trains coming in from Seaton, Sidmouth and Exmouth with only one an hour coming into St Davids and usually continuing either to Barnstaple or Tiverton.
Despite everything, much of the Withered Arm has survived, although some parts of it are virtually in suspended animation in the winter. The service waiting for me is slightly unusual in that it consists of a two coach class 142 Jogger coupled to a class 143 Skipper - there is no interconnection between the two, the Skipper is for Padstow, the Jogger is for Bude, they will separate at Okehampton. It isn't the fastest journey in the world, it will take nearly two and half hours to get to Wadebridge. The train is fairly well filled as the Okehampton carries a fair number of passengers each day, needless to say there are no facilities, not even a toilet on this train. We start off by heading up the Tarka line, although only calling at Crediton and head west at Coleford Junction. We pass through the abandoned station of Bow and make a request stop at North Tawton, there is no request to stop at Sampford Courtney on this journey. On calling at Okehampton, the gripper reminds everyone that this is the Padstow and tells us we have a few minutes to go to the loo.
The Bude section sets off first and we have to wait five minutes for it to clear the block section, we will have to follow it all the way to Halwill Junction that was. We do however go over the majestic Melford viaduct before branching off onto a single track line, the line continues south to Tavistock and Plymouth, but the line between Tavistock and Okehampton only has a single Parliamentary service a week, notoriously only on a Saturday and only southbound.
Not that the rest of arm is much better. Hawill Junction is no more, abandoned in the 1970's in favour of services starting and separating at Okehampton. The service to Barnstaple is merely a twice a day schools service taking the children of Hatherleigh to Okehampton or Torrington using an antiquated 1950's railcar. The Bude becomes a Skipper and runs a mere 4 times a day and the Padstow stops at Wadebridge and also uses the railcar a mere once a day. All that remains at Hawill is a passing loop and a signal box.
Today there are a couple of dozen of us, no one uses the two request stops on the way to Launceston which only remain open because of the poor road network in the area, they fail the Castle criteria by some margin. Most of the passengers get off at Launceston, but a few more get on here, the friendly guard reminds people that there is no toilet but there might be time at Camelford. I'm so used to us gliding through request stops that I am surprised that we stop at Egloskerry,but we don't stop at the other request stop before Camelford. Camelford station is particularly pretty and most passengers get off except for a small group of secondary school children. Most of the children turn out to be going to Delabole, where a couple of passengers get on. There is signs of other activity at Delabole, the old sidings have been restored as slate traffic, albeit only once a fortnight has resumed.
There are two other request stops on the way to Wadebridge and I am surprised that both are used, The inaccurately named Port Isaac Road by the remaining schoolchildren and St Kew Highway by a young couple who wish to board and are going to Padstow, Oddly enough, despite what I thought was a leisurely schedule, we get into Wadebridge on time.
There's enough time for a cream tea before getting on the penultimate train of the day. Which is back to the GW main line at Bodmin Road. This is the normal year round method of getting to Wadebridge and Bodmin and in the summer it can run every hour and is usually provided by a Bubble Car. Today is no except, but we have a lengthy wait at Bodmin General as we reverse there and end up slighly late into Bodmin Road which means I miss my connection.
That's not really a problem, I just have to wait for half an hour and instead of a main-line service to Par and changing, I get one of few dmu services along the mainline, a direct Plymouth-Newquay service on a class 117. These were introduced in order provide direct service for Newquay and Falmouth twice a day to Plymouth. They haven't been that popular as they are all-station stoppers, but at least it saves hanging around a bit more. The Newquay line has a number of "essential request halts" that see around 5-6 passengers a day, like with most services, we have a straight run through to Newquay after leaving the Cornish Main Line at Par.
Tomorrow, at least, I will spend most of my time on one train for the first time in this trip.