Sunday 7th June 2015
Harry's Hotel had done me just fine for the night and had a decent little bistro for my evening meal. It was only a short walk to back to the station via a little newsagents to pick up supplies and I quickly went to platform 2, missing this train would mean an awful lot of rescheduling. Aberystwyth has four platforms in use and has been smartened up and rebranded as part of 'Network Wales/Rhwydwaith Cymru', the Vale of Rheidol steam narrow gauge trains go from platform 1, the Carmarthen's from Platform 2 and the Cambrian line from Platform 3. I'm told that Platform 4 is mainly used for excursions.
Until two years ago, most of today's journey wouldn't have been possible, because the rural network in Wales ran very few Sunday services. BR ran very few services at all on some routes, but the new Welsh Assembly has pumped a lot of money into trying to improve rural public transport - mainly at the behest of the Plaid and LibDem members of the governing coalition. The restart of most Sunday services was only really possible when the new DMU's arrived.
The result is that on a Sunday, the Carmarthen line sees three trains along its entire length, two local trains and a Cardiff-Holyhead through service, there are also a couple of extra services from Carmarthen to Lampeter. Some of the other lines have a similarly sparse service and I will admit to being worried about the connection at Talyllyn Junction which if missed would mean heading to Brecon for the night instead of ending up at Bristol.
Of course, the line is lucky to have a service, after the Llanilar landslip of 1965, there were a number of years where the service only ran to Tregaron and was cut back to a bare minimum. It was only the upcoming 1968 election which supposedly saw that repaired. It was threatened further when the milk traffic was withdrawn on 1971 and eventually settled down to two trains a day with a couple of additional services on parts of the route. There was also some downgrading, closure of a lot of remote halts and the line limited to three passing loops. For a long time the line was the haunt of the East German railbuses that BR had bought cheap after the collapse of the DDR, but now it is all second or third generation DMU's.
Having said all that, it is still an extremely slow whilst extremely scenic route. It might only be 56 miles to Carmarthen, but it is scheduled for 2 hours passing the up service at Lampeter. However, Sunday is notorious for recovery time on services and the class 162's on the stopping trains are being held to the same timetable as the railbuses. It is, however, a very pleasant two hours through some stunning scenery with the assistance of a bottle of pop. The load is very light for the 2-coach train and there are only a dozen of us between Tregaron and Lampeter, but it does get busier and the request stops are used going into Carmarthen which we get into 10 minutes early.
There's a pleasant 25 minute wait at Carmarthen for the inbound train from Tenby which will take me through to Swansea, Carmarthen does rate a booking office and a Travellers Fare kiosk, but neither are open on a Sunday, nor is much of Carmarthen but a newsagent provides a fresh cold bottle of pop. The train into Swansea arrives on time and is fairly busy which accounts for the service every 40 minutes, it is a 3 coach 162 with the new Network Wales livery, as opposed to just a decal on the old BR Blue. It isn't an unpleasant journey, especially the journey through Burry Port and Ferryside and we arrive in Swansea a little early.
I'm fairly familiar with Swansea as I went to University there, after dropping my bag at left luggage, it's a short walk down to the Adam and Eve for a pint and a bite to eat. That passes a very pleasant hour before it is time to go back to the station. The next leg is on a line that has only recently been reopened to passenger traffic, whilst it has remained open for coal traffic, the long term effects of the Plan for Coal has slowly shut most of the colleries in South Wales leaving only a handful of working pits. Aberpergwm still provides some traffic but otherwise the line would be abandoned. The passenger service is to allow people in the upper Vale of Neath access to the growing market for jobs in Swansea. The service is provided with a single coach class 153 Runner DMU, usually referred to as a "Dogbox" by the enthusiasts. It's not a fast line, the track isn't in the best condition and it seems to be mainly busy between Swansea and Neath, but some more people get on at Hirwaun for the long journey through the Merthyr Tunnel on the single track section of the line.
The line is, in a way, an example of why the railways are overburdened, the Vale of Neath is a double track to Hirwaun. The old Mothball orders means that the double track has to be preserved even if it would best be single track adding to the expense. Luckily, the Smith Government loosened the rules on sidings and goods yards and the Owen Government loosened the rules on goods only lines that did not serve a significant population centre which has helped considerably with mothball costs in places like South Wales whilst assisting with the housing shortage in London, Birmingham and the booming other cities.
Despite everything, we are a few minutes late into Merthyr, although there is a decent connection time here. Merthyr is one of the stations where the excess platforms and space have gone, to be replaced by a number of shops headed up by a large branch of Tesco. There are now two platforms, one to handle the half hourly trains down the old Taff Vale line to Cardiff and one recently constructed to house the Swansea trains and the occasional and intermittent Brecon service.
The Brecon lines have been a source of some interest throughout the years. They had been closed in the early 1960's long before the rise of Barbara Castle to Secretary of State for Transport, Brecon, however met the traffic guidelines and also had some pressure from the Ministry of Defence for reopening and a very limited service was restarted from Hereford in 1966. However the Merthyr-Brecon line remained firmly closed, although part of the line was used for a freight service to Dowlais until the steelworks closed. The remainder of the old Brecon & Merthyr Tydfil was taken by as an option by a heritage railway company in the 1970's from Pontsticill Junction to Talyllyn Junction operating the odd weekend train on the section below the Pontsticill tunnel. The heritage railway, however, collapsed during the recession in the mid-1980's but because of this, the line came under the Mothball rules which it hadn't before. The Owen Government under some pressure towards the end of its term reopened the line for a minimal passenger service which also included servicing Dowlais via a reversal, it was not a success and was one of the first casualties of the Fowler axe which the bus service was improved. It was reopened again in 2002, mainly to try improve access to the Brecon Beacons rather than between Brecon and Merthyr where there is a better and faster service.
Having said that, it would probably be useful if the service ran through to Hereford, which it did originally, but since the move to Network Wales, the services have been split. It isn't actually possible to take this train and connect at Brecon now, you can only connect at Talyllyn Junction and if that connection is missed, my only choice would be to go back to Merthyr on the last train of the day and head down the Taff Vale to Cardiff and thence to Bristol.
There have been various forms of motive power on the Brecon line and one of the reasons for doing it was to try and get a class 25 with two coaches. However, it was not to be and it was one of the re-engined two car Calder Valley dmu's that took us out of Merthyr, with the Gurnos at a safe distance and on the climb up into the Beacons for the views of Pontsticill reservoir and the trip through the Torpantau tunnel, the highest tunnel in the UK. It was great and whilst we were 5 minutes behind at Talyllyn Junction, it still allowed 9 minutes for the connection.
Talyllyn Junction is a little sad, it is one of the original platforms resurfaced with the other forlornly out of use. It has a bus shelter and two information boards, one for BR and one for Network Cymru, there isn't even a station clock. It might be used by a hundred people a year, most of which are connecting to avoid going into Brecon.
However, the single coach class 143 "Skipper" railbus turns up on time and has to be flagged down. The Skippers are amongst the most hated trains on BR, being almost literally a bus on rails, used on low volume and supposedly short lines, sadly, I'll be on it for around 45 minutes as it struggles its way down from Brecon, through Hay on Wye and into Hereford. Again, it's a very pretty journey on a late spring afternoon, but the service is almost empty until it calls at Hay on Wye, where we pick up quite a few passengers who have been trying the hostelries of Hay for the day. We get into Hereford just on time, but sadly an hour too late for the station buffet because I could have done with a cold drink.
Luckily, it is only a few minutes to wait before the Bubble Car turns up to go to Gloucester. The Hereford-Gloucester route is one of those which has been decimated stationwise. When reprieved in 1964, it was reduced to three intermediate stations, one of those has since closed when criteria were revised and one of the others gets a service of one train a day in each direction, it is kept open because there is to be a development near there. This means that this line is just between Hereford and Gloucester with one call at Ross on Wye where there is a passing place. It does mean that the journey is substantially quicker that it used to be and we cover the 30 miles to Gloucester in a fairly chipper 40 minutes. It is also reasonably busy.
Gloucester station consists one one very, very long platform and like Hereford, the buffet is shut, but I actually arrive in time for a class 156 Sprinter, a 4-coach unit designed for the Cross-Country services which were part of Inter City until the 1990's. Cross-Country may not have buffets on the class 156's, but they do have a trolley and I can finally get an expensive drink on the 40 minute non stop run to Bristol Temple Meads which is my destination for the night.