An American in Kagoshima's Ryukyutown
“An American in Kagoshima’s Ryukyutown”
- Sam Hawthorne
Note: This article was written in April 1930 for the American magazine Foreign Life. As such, it contains language that is appropriate for the time. Random House has elected to avoid changing the text to provide a better window into the past.
- Sam Hawthorne
Note: This article was written in April 1930 for the American magazine Foreign Life. As such, it contains language that is appropriate for the time. Random House has elected to avoid changing the text to provide a better window into the past.
To many, Japan is a nation of unequaled stature. Not only did it take the best ideals of our Founding Fathers, they built upon them and improved them, arguably being better Americans than we ourselves are. Yet at the same time, they think of Japan as a land of exoticism, a source of a fad in the 1870s that still has its claws sunk in society today (I am certain many readers grew up with the “Tea Ceremony”). But what is not thought about is that Japan, like the United States, is a land of more than just one race.
To the South of the Home Islands lies the Kingdom of Ryukyu, an autonomous part of the Japanese state. A people with their own history, doubtless the first time many Americans heard of them was four years ago when China and Russia raised fuss and feathers about their annexation. Even fewer have heard of the Ryukyuan diaspora, which has spread far and wide, including to our own hemisphere. According to the 1920 census, some 3,000 people of Ryukyuan descent live in California, and there exist sizable communities in Hawai’i, Brazil, and Peru. Short in stature like their northern cousins, these people have greatly enriched Japan with their inclusion in its nation.
One of the largest Ryukyuan communities in Japan exists in the city of Kagoshima. Kagoshima, while not one of the most well-known towns in Japan, is a place well-worth visiting. Its naval dockyards are an impressive sight to see, while its automobile factory is the only one of its kind in Japan. The food is delicious, the climate mild, and the surrounding region is home to numerous farms where one can purchase fresh produce from bronze-skinned farmers in the summer and autumn seasons.
In the city’s eastern outskirts lies the neighborhood of Nantoo-shi, the thriving center of Ryukyuan living in Kagoshima. Here one can find statues of Shisaa, half-dog half-lion creatures from Ryukyuan folklore, on virtually every building. Those already familiar with Japan may recognize the Komainoo that dot the country’s shrines and temples, which would be an astute observation! While both draw inspiration from Chinese culture, Shisaa serve to protect homes while the Komainoo are typically relegated to religious places. These animals are the first signs of the simultaneous closeness and separation between the Ryukyuans and the Japanese.
Once you get past the guardians of Nantoo-shi, you can find yourself in a region dominated by the smell of food. This is Monnitori, the center of life in Nantoo-shi. Here you can find vendors hawking wares, yatai carts selling food, and busy locals going to and fro to the local trolley stations. The food is delectable, with the vendors showing off a wide variety of dishes from their homeland. My favorite was the Ryukyu soba, a noodle dish in which the Ryukyuans mix wheat noodles with a soup and meat from the Ryukyu Islands. When drunk with Amui rice wine, the meal is downright heavenly.
Alongside the food is the fascinating culture of Nantoo-shi. The Ryukyuans still practice their ancestral superstitions, and while they may be similar to the Shintoo rites, they are very clearly different. Chief among these, which you will find out if you walk into any one of their shrines, is that the priests in charge of their rites are women. Called Nuru, they hold strong religious authority over the Ryukyans, helping to participate in the consecration of new homes and apartments to protect them from evil spirits.
During my visit, I was able to meet a Nuru who spoke perfect English, a rarity even among normal Japanese. She explained to me that, while the old kings had tried to suppress the long-standing tradition of female priests, Ryukyuans still held firm to their old ways. Even in the modern era, when such superstitions that these women represent seem to be falling ever more to the wayside, the Ryukyuans continue to cling to the beliefs of their forefathers. When we finished speaking, she offered to send me to a yuta to ensure that I did not bring back any negative spirits with me to America. I thanked her, but politely declined the offer. (For those who wish to learn more about the religion of the Ryukyuans, I suggest reading Robert Palston’s excellent “Religions of the Orient”, which has an entire chapter dedicated to their beliefs.)
But the most peculiar thing about Nantoo-shi isn’t the exotic foods or religions, but rather the remarkable dearth of Yamato Japanese. Some can be found, often those who work in the area or have married into a Ryukyuan family, but by and large they are absent. Instead the population of Nantoo-shi seems to consist solely of Ryukyuans and the odd tourist such as myself. I asked my local guide about this curiosity, but all he could tell me was that this was what it was like in most places with a Ryukyuan neighborhood. To the wider Japanese population, Ryukyuans are seen as little more than country bumpkins, akin to how us Americans see our negroe and chicano countrymen. While outwardly polite to their countrymen, most Japanese go out of their way to avoid interacting with Ryukyuans.
Despite this feeling of disdain by much of the Japanese population, the Ryukyuans I spoke to still felt grateful to be Japanese subjects. “While the Yamato are sowa*, the government has brought us many opportunities,” my tour guide told me. “I remember the stories of my mother’s childhood, how they often had to struggle to just put food on the table as farmers. Now, she still lives in the same house she feared losing, she never has to worry about feeding my father and herself, and her eldest son gets to live in Honshu! It will take more than a little rudeness to make me forget that.”
*Ryukyuan slang for an uptight person. Comes from the Japanese onomatopoeia for fidgeting and the Ryukyuan stereotype of Yamato Japanese as being extremely stiff and quick to fidget as they struggle to maintain niceties when something doesn’t go their way.