Ao Dai - An sartorial reminder of Vietnam
A lasting impression for any visitor to the Kingdom of Vietnam is the beauty of the women dressed in their ao dais. Girls dressed in white pick their way through muddy streets going home from school or sail by in a graceful chatter on their bikes. Secretaries in delicate pastels greet you at an office door and older ladies in deep shades of purple, green or blue cut a striking pose eating dinner at a restaurant. The ao dai appears to flatter every figure. In true Vietnamese fashion it covers everything, but hides nothing.
Pronounced 'ao yai' in the south, but 'ao zai' in the north, the colour is indicative of the wearer's age and status. Young girls wear white, symbolising their purity. As they mature, but are still unmarried they move into soft pastel shades. Only married women wear gowns in strong, rich colours, usually over white or black pants. The ao dai has always been more prevalent in the south than the north, and after the division of Vietnam into two countries the ao dai has become almost exclusively associated with the Kingdom of Vietnam. As opposed to their dour, austere sisters in the North.
Above: A more traditional version of the Ao Dai.
Early versions of the ao dai date back to 1744 when Lord Vu Vuong of the Nguyen Dynasty decreed both men and women should wear an ensemble of trousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. However, it was not until 1930 that the ao dai as we know it became popular. Monsieur Le Mur or Cat Tuong to use his Vietnamese name, lengthened the top, fitted the bodice to the curves fo the body and moved the buttons from the front to an opening along the shoulder and side seam. The modern form that we know today originated in the 1950's from two tailors based in Saigon, Thiet Lap and Dung Tailors respectively.
Its popularity has continued to spread with time, appearing in America's Next Top Model and worn by the all girl pop group the Wonder Girls*. The clothing inspired French designers including such fashion luminaries such as Christian Lacroix, Claude Montana and Yves Saint Laurent.
Above: One of the more 'modern' interpretations of the traditional garment.
Its popularity may be its undoing as the garment is now being mass produced to make it available and cheaper. The gown length appears to be gradually shortening and today the hemlines end just below the knee. But most visitors to Vietnam agree that it is hard to think of a more elegant, demure and yet attractive outfit, that suits Vietnamese women of all ages, than the ao dai.
*Vietnamese version in this TL.