HMS Heligoland - and the Heligolanders
The establishment of a small dockyard at Heligoland Town in 1896 is the real start of modern Heligoland. Although there was a brief proposal to name it 'HMS Alexandra', the existence of the still-useful ironclad battleship (launched 1875) meant that 'HMS Heligoland' became the obvious choice. Because of the small size of Heligoland, most materials had to be shipped in by sea from Norway, Sweden and England. This is why the beaches and moles so often confuse visiting geologists - there is so much foreign material that the island has been claimed to be made of glacial moraine. The native sandstone and chalk were tunnelled extensively over nearly eighty years, so much so that maybe 15% of the island is voids or collapsed quarries.
'HMS Heligoland' began with muzzle-loading rifles on shore batteries, but by 1902 it became obvious that what Frederick called 'The Concrete Battleship' was inevitable. The first phase was eight 12-inch ex-battleship guns in coastal gun mounts and open surface emplacements, but Fort Drum in Manila Bay is a lesser example of what was planned in Heligoland - turreted and cupola'd battleship breech loader rifles that by 1914 had been intended to be sixteen 15-inch guns. The Oberland was turned into four deeply-buried battery systems that were linked by a light railway underground and provided with storage for thousands of rounds of ammunition. The water supply reservoirs resembled those of ancient Constantinople, holding up to two year's supply at normal use by the garrison. Rainwater was to be harvested, as at Gibraltar, but the delivery of water by the 'Aquarian Squadron' was sometimes essential.
There was an inevitable clash of interests with those of the native islanders, who on the one hand had jobs building, maintaining and garrisoning the fortress, but who grieved for the passing of agriculture and the wildlife of the Oberland. For a time, there was concern that the islands of Heligoland and Dune might be washed away, but storm-defences added to over decades saw that vanish. But those defences were also fortified against landings; blockhouses and pillboxes were fitted with searchlights, Maxims and Vickers guns, Hotchkiss and Elswick quickfirers. A full regiment of Royal Marines was brought in for coastal defence. The Old Harbour of stone and fishing-boats was an isolated relic amongst thousands of tons of imported granite, concrete and steel.
But Heligoland fell out of favour in 1904 when Sir John Arbuthnot Fisher became First Sea Lord, despite continuing Royal interest. Fisher cut the Naval budget by £3.6 million, which saw Heligoland reduced to eight 13.5-inch guns with a range of barely 36,000 yards at full elevation and the old eight 12-inchers in old turrets as a secondary battery armament. The savings paid for the 'Queen Elizabeth' class of battleships, but seriously weakened 'HMS Heligoland''s offensive capability. Whilst her guns could fight off a squadron of battleships, the 'Concrete Battleship' could not command all the channels to the Kiel Canal and Hamburg as Frederick had intended. The harbour - which would have spanned the whole area between the Island and Dune - was also reduced to three smaller mole-protected harbours for cruisers, destroyers, torpedo boats and submarines. Gone were the dreams of a forward assembly-area and anchorage for the Grand Fleet, Heligoland was filled with 'disposables' - turtle-back destroyers like 'Ardent', torpedo boats, three light cruisers and the once-respected 'HMS Alexandra', last of the broadside ironclad battleships, as guardship. But, in a gesture to the future, the submarines 'E-1', 'E-2' and 'E-3', the first of their class, were to be assigned to the Heligoland Squadron. Heligoland was to deny the enemy its strength and rely upon the small vessels for offensive work during a war. It was a sad come-down from the offensive role 'HMS Heligoland' had been intended to play.
"In the event of war, we'll have to evacuate all dependents to Britain." The Governor - always a Rear-Admiral - told the locals at a Town Hall meeting. "But the flag of British Heligoland remains - the White Ensign will not be the only flag on Heligoland." But the locals were not convinced; some were re-settled at Navy expense in Norfolk and in Denmark. A very few others were to try their luck in the Kaiser's Germany, with sad results in the future.
The influence of Heligoland was not in fact to be very great; the guns had a known maximum range of 36,000 yards and whilst they were a nuisance to the Kaiserliche Marine, they did not halt German naval deployments or coastal commerce. The problem for Germany was that the heavy guns sterilised the sea for naval movements in a circle 66 kilometers in diameter during daylight hours. The solution would be night movements, but the Royal Navy would then be able to use searchlights (range up to 18,000 yards) to cover a lesser diameter. Germany's solution was to look into the use of high-speed diesel or steam turbine torpedo boats and the building of Unterseeboot to pass under the sea near Heligoland. But, even in 1910, there was serious concern in the Royal Navy that minelayers could isolate the whole place in barely three days.
Africa had been the main expense of Heligoland; the Kenya Protectorate or Colony was a smaller one than the 1890 settlement would have allowed and the Zanzibar Protectorate nearly triggered a war. Britain had to agree not to turn Zanzibar into yet another fortified naval base, which made Aden the most viable alternative. At the same time (1898) there were squabbles over Fachoda, but Britain forced France to back down and leave this part of what became the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. German East Africa remained as a powerful block to the 'Cape to Cairo' ambitions of such as Cecil Rhodes. There was no effect, however, on the Boer War, except that the High Seas Fleet exercised off Heligoland and almost dared the Marine and Royal Navy gunners to open fire.